Brake Fluid Maintenance made Easy..er

I’m deviating from my normal blog formula a bit this month. Instead of offering some proven, technical piece, this is more of an semi-experimental maintenance  tip.

If you’ve read the blog about brake fluid (here), you understand why it is important to change the fluid out regularly, even on a street driven vehicle.  And if you’ve ever changed out your brake fluid, or paid to have it changed, you also know that it isn’t necessarily cheap, in terms of time or money.  I would guess that these expenses, as well as a general unawareness of brake fluid contamination issues, are the primary reasons that brake fluid is often neglected.

So, what if there was a simple method of fluid maintenance, that didn’t cost much, and could be done by anyone, in their own driveway?  Well, I think that there is, and it relies on a property of particle movement called diffusion.  In short, diffusion is the tendency of particles to try to level out their distribution through movement from areas of high concentrations to areas of low concentrations.  Imagine dropping some food coloring into a pitcher of clear water.  The color will start out as a distinct blob, and then, over a period of time, will disperse into the pitcher, changing the color of the water to a new, uniform shade.  That’s diffusion.

So how does this apply to brake fluid? Simple.  Water and other contaminants enter the fluid through seals, hoses, fittings, etc. Once these particles enter the system, they are free to move about the entire quantity of the fluid, and courtesy of diffusion, they do just that.  Over time, the concentration of contaminants in the fluid becomes relatively equal, throughout the fluid, including the fluid that resides in the reservoir, at the master cylinder. Since this reservoir is where fluid levels are checked, and fluid added as required, it is almost always very easy to access under the hood.

Corvette brake master cylinder

So this is where the simple maintenance method comes in.  All it takes is a couple bottles of brake fluid, and a turkey baster.  You simply take the lid off of the master cylinder reservoir (clean the lid first, to avoid adding any more dirt to the system), suck as much of the old fluid out as you can with the turkey baster (being very careful to avoid letting the fluid drip on any painted surface), and refill with clean fluid.  No need to remove the wheels, crawl under the car, find someone to pump the pedal, etc.

This clean fluid will now use diffusion to draw moisture and contaminants to it, thereby lowering the concentration in the fluid as a whole. Is it perfect?  Nope.  In fact, it’s nowhere near as effective as a full fluid flush.  But it is very easy to do, and quite cost effective.  So cheap and easy in fact, that you could do it at every oil change, or even once a month, without too much trouble.  The question remains as to whether or not this procedure done 4-6 times per year is equivalent to a complete flush every two years.  I’d venture to say that it is still not as good, but I’d imagine that it is pretty close, and it’s certainly better than a 3, 4, even 10 year (or longer) fluid change schedule, which I suspect is what the average daily driver is running around under now.  More importantly, it can’t hurt anything, as long as you are careful to not drip fluid on the paint, and don’t pump the pedal while the reservoir is empty…I don’t know why you would, but its worth noting.  It’s also worth noting that this procedure can be used on hydraulic clutch systems, as well.  In either case, check your owner’s manual for the proper fluid, if you aren’t sure.

One more point…never use fluid from an previously opened bottle.  You should always start with a brand new one.  Small 12 oz bottles are easy to find, and relatively cheap.

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Ethanol in motor vehicle fuel…what you need to know

You’ve probably all heard about ethanol, and its use in motor vehicle fuels.  Some say that it is the solution to ending our dependence on foreign oil, and cutting pollution.  Others say that it is nothing more than a scam, and is in no way a solution to anything.  Setting these arguments aside, ethanol is being blended with gasoline in varying concentrations, and as such, there are some things you should know.

First, let’s talk a little about ethanol as a compound.  Ethanol is the same type of alcohol found in beer, wine, and liquor.  It can be produced via many processes, but the most common source is through fermentation of plant materials, such as corn.  It is the ‘renewable’ nature of plant materials that make ethanol potentially attractive as a fuel source.  It is the nature of the chemical itself; however, that creates issues with its use in your vehicle.

First, ethanol has a lower energy content per unit than gasoline, so more must be burned, to get the same power output.  In a motor vehicle, this translates to fewer miles per gallon, which leads to lower range per tank, and potentially higher operating cost per mile.  At the same time, though, ethanol has a higher octane rating than gasoline, which in the right situation, can help regain some of the ‘lost’ energy.

Second, ethanol tends to attract and absorb more moisture than pure gasoline.  So, blending it with gasoline can lead to more moisture in the fuel system, which can lead to issues with corrosion.  Newer vehicle fuel systems tend to be less susceptible to corrosion in general, and regular vehicle use keeps the relative moisture levels low, for the most part, making this less of an issue on newer, frequently driven cars.

Both of the above issues are concentration dependent, though.  So how much ethanol are we talking about?  The most touted ethanol blend is known as E85, which contains 85% ethanol, and 15% gasoline.  Many newer vehicles have been designed to run on this blend, and are typically referred to as ‘flex fuel’ vehicles.  The fuel systems in these vehicles have been specially designed, and the engine control computers have calibrations which can minimize the energy content issues of the blend.  Combined with the typically lower cost of E85, this negates most if not all of the ‘cost per mile’ issues.  While many older vehicles will in fact run on E85, it is not a recommended practice, and will likely yield less than satisfactory results.

But E85 isn’t the only place we find ethanol in the fuel supply.  Approximately 90% of the gasoline sold in the United States contains up to 10% ethanol, and is known as E10.  Most fueling stations will post notices to this effect, but since there is no unifying federal disclosure law, the notice is not always obvious, or even present.  The good news is that 10% ethanol does not seem to produce any ill effects when used in place of straight gasoline, and until recently, was the maximum allowed in motor vehicle fuels, outside of E85.

In 2009, however, the ethanol industry petitioned the EPA to expand the maximum level to 15%, creating E15.  SEMA joined with a coalition of experts and industry leaders to oppose this change, citing the unknown effects of a 50% increase in ethanol content, in vehicles not designed for such a blend.  The EPA agreed, in part, but in November of 201, they went forward with issuing a partial waiver allowing the use of E15 in 2007 and newer vehicles. Then, in January of this year, they extended the waiver to 2001 and newer.  This essentially makes it ‘legal’ to use E15 in 2001 and new vehicles, and ‘illegal’ in those that are older.

But what does this mean?  Since it is legal in some vehicles, there is nothing stopping your local gas station from filling their holding tanks with E15.  Since in most cases ethanol reduces the cost to the station, while at the same time increasing gallons used (and therefore sold), one could even see a business motivation to do so.  And who doesn’t like the idea of using less foreign oil, while reducing pollution at the same time?  Well, if you have an older vehicle, particularly one that is not driven often, you might not like it at all.  Especially when you take into account the lack of consistency in disclosure as to what you are pumping into your tank.

SEMA and others are working with Congress to address  the issue.  Currently, there is a measure to restrict the EPA in this regard, as part of their 2011 funding package.  It has been approved by the house, and is awaiting approval in the senate. SEMA also supports a similar ban for 2012, as well as a separate bill that places an indefinite ban on E15. In the meantime, look for signage on the pump next time you fill up.  If you can’t find the information on the pump, ask the station owner.  If that doesn’t work, consider going somewhere else.

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Alignment…what does it all mean?

Just about every driver understands the concept of an alignment.  As the name suggests, it its purpose is to align the tires of a vehicle.  Everyone has also probably heard the terms caster, camber, and toe…the so called ‘big 3’ of alignment specs.  But its how these items work together to affect a cars handling under particular circumstances, that is really important.  Read More

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Is _____________ a good motor oil?

Fill in the blank with any of the major brands, and this is a question we are asked quite often.  Since the question usually comes from an automotive enthusiast, the blank is usually filled in with one of the quality synthetics like Mobil 1, Amsoil, Red Line, and the like.  The short answer then is, yes, they are all good motor oils.  Depending on application and grade, there are pros and cons of each, but for the most part, they are all fine for use in modern automobiles.

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Brake Upgrades…What works, and what doesn’t. Part 2, fluids

In part 1 of this series, we looked at brake rotors, and what upgrades and features are available in the aftermarket.  More importantly, we learned that some upgrades are better than others, and that it is important to consider upgrading rotors only as part of a well thought out, complete package. In this installment, we will look at another key component, brake fluid.

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Brake Upgrades…What works, and what doesn’t? Part 1, rotors.

What is the first question nearly anyone with a hot car is asked?  In my experience it almost always concerns power or speed.  Rarely, if ever, does someone ask how well it stops.  But not only are brakes important for obvious safety reasons, the ability to properly stop the car can actually make you faster in any sort of race that involves turns.  Being able to predictably and repeatedly bring the car down from speed allows for consistent lap times.  Shortening the time it takes to do it, allows for quicker lap times.

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FTC confirms Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act…using aftermarket parts, or non-dealer service DOES NOT void your warranty.

This topic comes up quite a bit in automotive circles.  Some enthusiasts have been lead to believe that anything from bolting on a cat back exhaust system to using something other than Mobil 1 in their new Corvette will ‘void’ their warranty.  Unfortunately, the source of this misinformation is often a new car dealership, which makes it seem all the more credible.  I don’t fault the dealership or their personnel for this, rather, I suspect it is more just a case of them relating what they believe to be true.  Like many other people, they are often unaware of the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act, despite the fact that it was enacted over 35 years ago.

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Cam Design, Cam Selection, and the Blackdog Difference, Part 2.

In the last article, we touched on the relationship between cam specs, particularly duration, lift and lobe separation angle, and how they relate to performance.  In this installment, we’ll look specifically at Blackdog LS motor cams, and what makes them superior.

DESIGN

Todd Goodwin, of Goodwin Competition Race Engines, has chosen each one of our profiles based on not only their performance, but on the efficiency of the designs.  As I mentioned in part one, a camshaft is more than just lift and duration, despite those being the two things just about everyone looks at. Things like overall cam timing, lobe shape, and ramp speed are equally important.

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Cam Design, Cam Selection, and the Blackdog Difference, Part 1.

After the basic bolt on mods are done, such as headers, cold air intake, and cat back exhaust, the quest for more power often leads to the cam shaft. There is essentially no single component that has more influence over an engine’s operating characteristics than the cam.  It is like the conductor of the valve train, controlling how and when the valves open in relation to the movement of the piston.  As such, choosing the right cam shaft can make huge improvements in overall performance of a vehicle. Unfortunately, making the wrong choice can also make the vehicle perform quite poorly in its intended use. The first step in selecting a cam is to define your performance goals.  Next, you need to understand a few key cam specifications, and how they work together with other vehicle modifications, to help you reach these goals. Finally, and most importantly, you need to find a supplier who can not only combine all these factors into an ideal cam shaft, but can also help you choose the other components you’ll need to build a reliable, effective valvetrain.  Ideally, this supplier also has the tools and equipment necessary to fully research and test their designs in real world conditions.

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A look into the torque tube assembly of the C5 and C6 Corvettes, its weaknesses, and what you can do to prevent problems.

Prior to 1997, Corvette drivelines were much the same as other rear drive cars.  A multi speed transmission was bolted to the back of the engine, and transferred its power to the rear mounted differential, via a steel or aluminum tubular driveshaft.  Steel, serviceable universal joints at each end of this shaft allowed for offsets required in the installation, and a three sided driveline support connected the rear of the transmission to the differential. This support acted both to prevent the differential from rolling under load, and as a safety hoop, preventing the driveshaft from contacting the road, should a u-joint fail.

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